List of supplies every goatie owner should have.

I've been asked quit a bit about what kind of supplies people should keep on hand for their goats. This is what I personally keep on hand, and generally it's rare for me to use up a bottle of anything before it expires, but better be safe then sorry! So here goes.

Always keep Epinephrine on hand when giving shots! See below.

Vaccines/antibiotics/other injectables. For the non-refrigerated ones, keep in a cool and dark place for best results.

1. Epinephrine. Epinephrine injectable solution is an emergency treatment for circulatory failure resulting from anaphylactic shock.  It is a must item for emergency kits whre bacterins, vaccines, seryums or antibiotics are being used. 20g needle. Refrigerated. *RX*.
2. LA200. (oxytetracycline). Good for pneumonia, pinkeye, shipping fever and hoof rot. I've only ever used it for pneumonia and it has worked very well. Does sting so I give it SQ (under the skin) and over the ribs to reduce stinging. Thicker fluid so I suggest using a 18g need. Non-refrigerated.
3. Penicillin. Pneumonia, wounds, etc. 18g needle. Refrigerated.
4. Nuflor. Good for pneumonia. 18g needle. Non-refrigerated. *RX*.
5. Excenel RTU. Ready-to-use injectable ceftiofur hydrochloride that's effective against a broad spectrum of pathogens that cause bovine respiratory disease including: BRD Shipping fever, Pneumonia, Metritis, and Foot rot. Give according to directions. 18g needle. Non-refrigerated. *RX*
6. Covexin 8.  7-way blackleg plus tetanus (CD/T). This does not sting like the Bar Vac brand does nor does it leave injection site lumps. 2cc per goat no matter age/sex/weight, followed by a booster dose 4 weeks later. 20g needle. Refrigerated.
7. Lepto-5. For vaccination of goats as an aid in prevention of leptospirosis caused by Leptospira canicola, L. grippotyphosa, L. hardjo, L. icterohaemorr-hagiae, and L. pomona. Goats only get the L. Pomona strain. If you live in an area with a lot of deer or on an old cattle farm, this is a good vaccine to prevent abortions from Lepto. Give it 60 days prior to breeding and then a booster shot 4 weeks later. 2cc. Give to breeding bucks as well. 20g needle. Refrigerated.
8. Banamine. Flunixin Meglumine. Non-steroid anti-inflammatory and fever reducing drug. Give according to directions and no more then five days at a time. This is an injectable but I give it orally per vet directions because of the sting factor. 20g needle. *RX*. Non-refrigerated. 
9. Dexamethasone. Steroid anti-inflammatory. Should not be given to pregnant does as it will cause them to abort/go into labor. Follow dosing directions on bottle. Should be stepped down in doses, so if you gave 5cc the first day, you do 4cc the next, then 3cc, 2cc and then 1cc respectively. 20g needle. *RX*. Non-refrigerated. 
10. Oxytocin. Recommended as an aid in the management of the following conditions: To precipitate labor. To accelerate normal parturition. Postpartum evacuation of uterine debris. Contract smooth muscle cells of the mammary gland for milk letdown. This accelerates normal labor, and aids in letting down milk. Follow dosing directions. *RX*. 20g needle. Non-refrigerated.
11. Lutalyse (dinoprost tromethamine). For aborting does who where bred to young or if bucks got in the pen. 2cc per goat no matter age/size. Then follow up with 2cc ten days later. Also used to bring normally cycling does into heat (if there is a mature CL present). 20g needle. *RX*. Non-refrigerated. Note, pregnant women should avoid using this as contact with fluid on skin or via needle can cause abortion.
12. Fertagyl (GnRH). Gonadorelin hydrochloride for the treatment of cystic ovaries. If you have a doe that is cycling abnormally, try 1/2cc. Then repeat ten days later. You can also give shot day of breeding to help settle the doe better. 20g needle. *RX*. Refrigerated.                        

Oral medications and supplements.

1. Red Cell. Contains 300 mg of chelated iron per ounce. This is an excellent supplement for anemic goats or goats who are suffering from mineral deficiencies. I give 5cc per goat. 
2. Kaopectate. For oral administration in treatment of diarrhea and enteritis in large and small animals. Works well and helps stop dehydration. But remember, diarrhea is only a symptom of a bigger problem and you must figure that out in order for it to clear up completely. 5cc per goat. Can be given twice daily. Never use  Imodium A-D in goats as it will cause death.
3. Milk of Magnesia. For goats who are constipated or need to be clear out of toxic feed/forage. Follow directions.
4. Dextrose 50%. For use as an aid in the treatment of ketosis and as a source of carbohydrates. 40 ml per 100 pound IV or you can give orally. 
5. Fresh Cow YMCP (or Fresh Goat YMCP). A readily digestible combination of yeast, magnesium, calcium, potassium, betaine and niacin for use goats after kidding to prevent ketosis and milk fever. This is a powder you mix with water. Most goats like the taste and will readily drink it in warm water with a little molasses. 
6. Amino Acid oral. For use as a supplemental nutritive source of amino acids, electrolytes, B complex vitamins, and dextrose goats. Helpful for sick or goats under stress. Follow directions.
7. Lactated Ringer's. For the rehydration and replacement of electrolytes. For goats, give it in several areas in small amounts under the skin. *RX*
8. Duramycin 10. Powder available in 6.4 oz packet. For use in the drinking water of goats to control and treat bacterial enteritis (scours) caused by: E. coli, Bacterial pneumonia, Actinobacillus pleuropneumoniae and Klebsiella spp. This is good to add to drinking water during times of stress or weather changes to prevent pneumonia. Follow directions on packet.
9. Aspirin powder. To be used orally as an aid in reducing fever and in relief of minor muscular aches and pains. Follow directions on packet. 
10. Bluelite Bovine. Electrolyte.There is a goat version but since they differ very little, and the bovine version is easier to find, that is what I use. Excellent product to use during times of stress and heat. This can be mixed into their water or top dressed on their feed. 

While this is not a "complete" list, it should help people trying to decide what to have on hand. Again, I am not a vet and you should always talk to a vet before treating your animals.